Panchkroshi Yatra – Ancient Sacred Circle of Varanasi

Ever wondered about the significance of a marble plate outside the majority of the temples in Varanasi showing the order of that particular temple? Let’s decode this and understand the pilgrimage routes of Varanasi especially “The Panchkroshi”.

Introduction

“Kashi the cultural capital of India”, is enriched by thousands of Puranic temples, and most of them are linked together with the pilgrimage routes. These routes are the sacred landscape of Varanasi, which symbolizes a cosmos and makes the cultural, spiritual, religious, and architectural heritage.

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Surprisingly Varanasi is designed with such signs, symbols, and sacred geometry that its territorial organization makes it a “Cosmocised sacred City”, unfortunately, most people are unaware of this fact hence many sacred sites have been altered or lost over the period

The center of this sacred geometry is the “Madhyameshwara  Mahadev – the lord of Centre” on the bank of Mandakini Tirtha (Mandakini Tirtha is lost now, but some locals consider the pond in the company garden at Maidagin as Mandakini Tirtha).

Five concentric circles spread from the “Madhyameshwara “ and divide the city into five territorial layers, representing the five aspects of Lord Shiva –

  1. Vamadeva
  2. Sadyojata
  3. Aghora
  4. Tatpurusha
  5. Ishana

Five elements, five transcendental powers hence forms the five pilgrimage paths of  Kashi named as –

  1. Chaurasikroshi
  2. Panchkroshi
  3. Nagar Pradakshina (around the outer part of the city)
  4. Avimukta (Inner city, where lord Shiva is always said to be present)
  5. Antagriha (circles the core of Kashi).

Chaurasikroshi is the largest one of these circles, also known as “ Brihada Panchkroshi”.

Panchkroshi Yatra, varanasiSo with this, we can say that “Kashi illuminates the world by dwelling inside the citadel of Lord Vishwanath, as the world within.”  So while performing these journeys a pilgrim transcends the macrocosmic world in the form of microcosms.

Out of these sacred paths “Panchkroshi” is the most popular and fairly documented one. 

Panchkroshi Yatra is divided into five parts with a night halt station, linking temples on the right-hand side of the path and Dharamshala (44 in number with the capacity of nearly 25 thousand accommodations) on the left-hand side of the route.

The Panchkroshi houses 108 Shiva temples, 11 Vinayaka temples, 10 Devi temples, 4 Vishnu temples, 2 Bhairava temples, and 15 temples dedicated to other Devas. Some of the important Temples are mentioned below –

1Manikarnikeshvara55Bhairava
2Siddhi Vinayaka56Bhairavi Devi
3Ganga Keshava57Bhutanatheshvara
4Lalita Devi58Somanatheshvara
5Jarasandheshvara59SindhurodhasaTirtha
6Someshvara60Kalanatha
7Dalabheshvara61Kapardishvara
8Shulatankeshvara62Kameshvara
9(Adi) Varaheshvara63Ganeshvara
10Dashashvamedheshvara64Virabhadra Gana
11Bandi Devi65Charumukha Gana
12Sarveshvara66Gananatheshvara
13Kedareshvara67Dehali Vinayaka
14Hanumadishvara68Shodasa Vinayaka
15Sangameshvara (Asi)69Udanda Vinayaka
16Lolarka Kunda70Utkaleshvara
17Arka Vinayaka71Rudrani Devi
18Durga Kunda72Tapobhumi
19Durga Vinayaka73Varana Tirtha (river)
20Durga Devi74Rameshvara
21Vishvakseneshvara75Someshvara
22Kardameshvara76Bharateshvara
23Kardama Tirtha77Lakshmaneshvara
24Kardama Kupa78Shatrughaneshvara
25Somanatheshvara79Dvavabhumishvara
26Virupaksha80Nahusheshvara
27Nilakantheshvara81Asankhyata Linga
28Naganatha82Devasangheshvara
29Chamunda83Pashapani Vinayaka
30Moksheshvara84Prithvishvara
31Karuneshvara85Svargabhumi
32Virabhadreshvara86Yupa Sarovara
33Vikata Durga87Kapilahrida
34Unmatta Bhairava88Vrishabhadhvajeshvara
35Nila Gana89Jvala Nrisimha
36Kalakuta Gana90Varana Sangama
37Vimala Durga91Adi Keshava
38Mahadeveshvara92Sangameshvara
39Nandikesha Gana93Kharva Vinayaka
40Bhringiriti Gana94Prahaladeshvara
41Ganapriya95Trilochaneshvara
42Virupaksha96Vindu Madhava
43Yaksheshvara97Panchaganga
44Vimaleshvara98Gabhastishvara
45Mokshada99Mangla Gauri
46Jnanada100Vashishtha
47Amriteshvara101Vamadeva
48Gandharva Sagara102Parvateshvara
49Bhimacandi Devi103Maheshvara
50Chanda Vinayaka104Siddhi Vinayaka
51Raviraktaksha Gandharva105Saptavarna Vinayaka
52Narkarnavataraka Shiva106Manikarnika Tirtha
53Ekapadagana107Muktimandapa
54Mahabhima108Vishveshvara

The Five parts of Panchkroshi Yatra

  1. Kardmeshwara
  2. Bhimchnadi
  3. Rameshwar
  4. Panch Pandav, Shivpur
  5. Kapildhara

*These five stops are on a radial path of 80 km. The radial point of this sacred root is the temple of “Dehli Vinayak” with the distance between the center ( Madhyameshwara)  and the radial point is 5 krosha(i.e. 11 miles or 16 Km).

Distance between Halts

  • Manikarnika to Kardmeshwara – 3 Kos
  • Kardmeshwar to Bhim Chandi – 5 Kos
  • Bhimchandi to Rameshwar – 7 Kos
  • Rameshwar to Shivpur – 4 Kos
  • Shivpur to Kapildhara – 3 Kos
  • Kapildhara to Manikarnika – 3 Kos  ( Making the total journey of 25 Kos)

*1 Kos = 3.2 Km

In the holy month of  Chaitra, Vaisakh, Falgun, Kartik, Sawan and Adhimas(Purushottam), thousands of devotee embarks on this 5-day long journey of five kosha after taking bath at Ganga, darshan of Kashi VishwanathMaa AnnapurnaDhundhiraj Ganesh and Sankalpa ( the sacred vows) at Gyanvapi. Usually, the yatra is five days but on the day of Shivratri, it can be performed in a day too.

After taking vows to complete the journey, the devotee starts their journey from Chakrapuskarini tirtha, Manikarnika Ghat, and proceeds barefooted with immense devotion towards other destinations in the hope of Moksha.

First Halt – Kardmeshwara  Mahadev

Kardmeshwar Mahadev, panchkroshi yatra varanasi
(Kardmeshwar Mahadev, source: Amar Ujala)

The first and most important night halt at Kandwa Village is the temple of Kardmeshwara Mahadev temple, one of the oldest structures, archeologically dating to CE 10th century, though certain surrounding structures date to the Gupta period, CE 4th – 6 th centuries.

As names go the Shiv linga here was installed by the sage Kardam, who was the son of Prajapati, one of the progenitors of life and believed to be the son of Brahma. 

Adjacent to this magnificent temple a pond is there,  named “ Kardam Kunda / Tirtha believed to be formed by the teardrops of sage Kardam while doing Tapasya.  Historically this massive rectangular pond was constructed in the mid-18th century by Queen Rani Bhavani of Nator Estate ( Bengal).

kardmeshwar kund
Kardam kund/Thirtha

Virupaksha linga, Nilkanthesvara, Yaksheshvara,  Somanathevara ( a well in which devotee see their reflection and believes that their life is safe),  Kardama Kupa the surrounding complex has along with images of Ganesha, Parvati, Vishnu, Surya, and other deities.

Devotees take a holy bath in the Kardam Kunda and offer five grains i.e. barley, paddy rice, wheat, green lentils, black lentils as well as sesame with Bilva Patra and Gangajal to lord Kardmeshvra, and pray for their well beings. 

panchkroshi yatra dharamshala
A Dharamshala near Kardameshwar Temple

Second Halt – Bhim Chandi

Bheem Chandi, panchkroshi yatra varanasi
Chandikeshvara Shiva | Bheem Chandi, source: VaranasiKshetra

Dedicated to the fierce form of goddess Durga – Bhim Chandi / Bhism Chandi is the next stop after the Kardmeshwara.  The temple of Chandikeshvara Shiva is also situated here. The Temple complex has five statues of Pandavas and a Gandharv Sagar Kund.

Third Halt – Rameshwar

Rameshwar Temple varanasi
Rameshwar Temple (left), One of the shivlings believed to be built by Lord Ram (center), Varuna Ghat (right)

Situated after the longest route ( 28 km ) from Bimchandi to Rameshvara at the bank of river Varuna is the Rameshwar Mahadev Temple.  According to famous belief, after the killing of Ravana Lord Rama did penance here and established a Shiv linga to get away from the sin of killing a Brahmana. Every year in November an annual fair of “Lota – Bhanta” happens here. Where devotees offer cooked food from potato, and eggplant to Lord Shiva, and pray for the wellbeing of their children.

Lota Bhanta Mela varanasi
Devotees preparing Litti Baati at Lota Bhanta fair

Nearby this temple, a temple dedicated to the goddess Tulja Bhawani is present. Tulja Bhawani is the form of goddess Durga and kula Devi of Veer Chatrapati Shiva Ji Maharaj.

Fourth Halt – Shivpur

Shivpur Padav, Panchkrohi yatra varanasi
Idols of Pandavas & Dropati at Shivpuri (Source: Indian tales)

A much simpler temple structure situated outer skirt of Banaras. This temple has five Shivling established by Pandvas in descending order. Adjacent to the temple a pond known as “ Draupadi Kund” is present.

According to legends after losing their kingdom, In their exile period, Pandavas did Panchkroshi Yatra and worshipped Lord Shiva here to get their lost kingship.

Fifth Halt – Kapil Dhara

Kapil Dhara Temple
Kapil Dhara Temple (source: Indian Tales)

The final and last destination of the five-day-long pilgrimage is “Kapileshwara Mahadev Temple” situated at the bank of a large pond. The Shiv linga here was established by Sage Kapil, son of Sage Kardam. Surprisingly both temple Kardmeshvara and Kapil Dhara temple are situated at a long straight axis (12 km long) that delineates the western edge of Kashi while the eastern edge is made by the river Ganga.

Kapil dhara, panchkroshi yatra, Varanasi
( Source –From the archive of James Princep)

Ending the Yatra

After completing the rituals at Kapildhara temple, the devotee heads to the temple of “Jaun Vinayak” near the majestic Adi Keshav Ghat at the confluence of Varuna and Ganga.  The devotee offers their homage to Lord Ganesha here and take the Jaun or Oat saplings from this temple and plant them in Ganga. Planting the sapling denotes the completion of a great task as we say here at Varanasi “Ganga Ji mein jaun bo diye”.

From here pilgrim reaches back to Manikarnika Ghat, and leaves their Sankalpa (The sacred Vows )here, this final step marks the completion of this sacred journey.

As per our tradition, it’s important to take the blessings of the elderly after the completion of sacred works so again devotee heads to Ganga for a holy bath and darshan of Lord Vishwanath, Annapurna, Vinayak, and  Kal Bhairav before leaving for their respective homes.

With this, our Panchkroshi Yatra comes to an end!!  Next time if you get the chance to visit Kashi or if you are in this divine city, please make these journeys feel the rich meanings of our cultural heritage and the Varanasi.

5 Responses

  1. How does one undertake the Panchkroshi Yatra? I mean, is there any organized manner or do people do this on their own?
    Tnx

  2. Thank you for such valuable information and insight. You ignited the fire in me to take up this Yatra. With grace of Lord Vishwanath this will fructify at the right time. Har Har Mahadev. Vishweshvaray Namah.

  3. So well described!!!
    I have a thing to add which you somehow missed but take note it’s crucial for the successful completion of Panchkroshi yatra, in the end after the coming back to Manikarnika ghat, there’s a temple named Saptavarna Vinayaka popularly known as “Jau Vinayaka” situated between manikarnika ghat and vishwanath temple. It is said to be that all the remaining jau’s (make sure every single grains) should be left here and. From kharva vinayaka or jau vinayaka at Varuna that you mentioned Jaun’s start to scattered all over the journey and here at Manikarnika Saptavarna Vinayaka “joun Vinayaka, the scattering of jau ends. It’s the epitome of ending of the yatra. You can see a marbel containing the name of the temple along with mentioned Panchkroshi yatra’s stage here which was build by Pujya Karpatri ji Maharaj.
    It’s least known stage of the yatra but necessary for the completion of the yatra.

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