Few cities in the world are as intimately intertwined with a river as Varanasi is with the Ganga. For thousands of years, boats on this sacred river have been more than transportation. They have served as vessels of ritual, commerce, community, and spiritual passage. As Varanasi has evolved, so have its boats, from dugout canoes crafted by hand to the curated river cruises of today.
In this article, we explore the fascinating evolution of boating in Varanasi. We’ll discover how this ancient tradition, deeply rooted in sacred scriptures and shaped over centuries by local customs, is now being reimagined by today’s travellers and the possibilities of the digital age.
Boats in Ritual and Mythology
References to boats on the Ganga appear as early as the Rigveda, where the river is both a physical and spiritual lifeline. In ancient Kashi, pilgrims often used wooden rafts or dugout canoes to reach remote ghats and sacred points along the riverbank. These simple crafts were not just a means of travel. They were woven into religious life and daily rituals.
Boats played a vital role in funeral rites. Even today, bodies are ferried across the Ganga to Manikarnika Ghat for cremation, a tradition that has remained unchanged for centuries.
In Vedic texts, the boat (or “nava”) often represents spiritual transition, crossing not just the river, but also the boundary between life stages or worlds. The boat represents movement from one world to the next.
Commerce and Pilgrimage
Between the 12th and 18th centuries, Varanasi flourished as a vital hub for the silk, sandalwood, and spice trades. The Ganga functioned as the city’s main economic artery. Larger boats and barges transported goods, priests, pilgrims, and common folk across the river and between towns.
Key river crossings, such as Gola Ghat, served as essential transit points for locals and traders needing to cross the Ganga. Before the construction of permanent bridges, these ferry crossings were critical for commerce and daily life. Gola Ghat’s location enabled movement between the main city on the east bank and the surrounding settlements on the west.
Under Mughal rule, river taxation was imposed on commercial vessels and passenger boats, reflecting the strategic importance of river traffic. Ceremonial barges with canopy shades became status symbols for nobles and wealthy pilgrims who travelled the river for religious or administrative purposes.
Historical records and travellers’ accounts from the Mughal and early British periods describe the busy riverbanks teeming with boats of various sizes, from simple dugouts to large, ornately decorated vessels used during festivals and official visits.
British Surveys and River Navigation
During the colonial period, particularly under the East India Company and later the British Raj, the Ganga was extensively surveyed for administrative, commercial, and military purposes. Notably, James Rennell, appointed as the first Surveyor-General of Bengal in the late 18th century, conducted some of the earliest and most detailed mappings of the Ganges River and its tributaries. These charts helped British authorities monitor and manage riverine trade routes.
By the mid-19th century, paddle-wheel steamers began operating on the Ganga, primarily between Calcutta (now Kolkata), Patna, and Allahabad. Although some of these commercial steamers reached Varanasi, the city’s densely packed ghats and narrow waterfront made it difficult for large vessels to navigate close to shore. As a result, traditional rowboats continued to dominate local transport along Varanasi’s riverfront.
Travellers and missionaries who visited Banaras during this era frequently recorded their impressions of the river. Many described long, narrow boats, often operated by local boatmen rowing rhythmically along the ghat-lined banks. These boats carried pilgrims to and from ritual bathing spots, cremation ghats like Manikarnika and Harishchandra, or simply allowed visitors to experience the visual splendour of the city from the water.
Evenings and mornings were especially significant. While the modern Ganga Aarti had not yet taken shape, simple lamp offerings (deep daan), bell sounds from temples, and chants from priests created a spiritual ambience that made a lasting impression. Boat rides at sunrise or twilight were described as deeply moving, offering an intimate view of Banaras as a city of devotion and continuous ritual.
Post-Independence (1947-1990s)
After India gained independence in 1947, the rapid expansion of railways and roadways led to a gradual decline in the use of rivers for long-distance commercial transport. Across northern India, inland waterways were deprioritised, and Varanasi was no exception.
However, in Varanasi, the Ganga retained its ritual centrality. While large-scale cargo movement diminished, small wooden boats continued to serve essential spiritual and cultural roles. The boatmen of Varanasi adapted, catering to the steady flow of pilgrims who came to the ghats for religious practices.
During this period, boats were primarily used for:
- Morning ritual bathing (subah snan), especially during auspicious months like Kartik.
- Immersion of idols and offerings during festivals such as Durga Visarjan and Ganesh Chaturthi.
- Scattering of cremation ashes, a core part of moksha-related rites performed at Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats.
- Short pilgrim rides along the ghats, especially at dawn or dusk.
Despite economic challenges, many oarsmen’s families, often from traditional boatman castes such as the Mallah or Nishad, continued their work. They passed down skills across generations, maintaining boats by hand and rowing pilgrims without motors. These boatmen played a quiet but critical role in preserving the sacred relationship between the people of Varanasi and their river.
Tourism Era (2000s-2015) – The Rise of the Ghat View
By the early 2000s, Varanasi had begun to emerge as a focal point for international and domestic tourism, especially among travellers seeking immersive spiritual and cultural experiences. The ghats of the city, already revered in Hindu tradition, took on a new dimension when viewed from the river, offering a layered panorama of temples, rituals, ascetics, and daily life unfolding against an ancient skyline.
As tourism grew, boating became one of the most sought-after activities for visitors. The view from the river gave tourists a unique perspective, one that combined sacred geography with everyday rhythms. Floating past Manikarnika Ghat, where cremation fires burn day and night, or watching priests offer morning prayers at Assi Ghat, became a powerful experience for many.
This period saw the following shifts:
- Increased demand for boat rides led to a noticeable rise in boat licenses issued by local authorities.
- Boat operators adapted by offering more comfortable experiences, adding mats, cushions, and shaded coverings.
- Some began offering basic guide services, narrating the significance of key ghats and rituals in multiple languages.
- Though the Ganga Aarti in its modern form began in the 1990s, it was during this tourism boom that evening boat rides to view the Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat became iconic.
Travel guides like Lonely Planet, Rough Guides, and numerous travel blogs began recommending the boat ride as a “must-do” experience in Varanasi, positioning it alongside the Golden Temple, Taj Mahal, and Jaipur’s forts in terms of visitor priority.
Boating, once a ritual necessity or economic lifeline, was now becoming a cultural product, a way for travellers to witness the spiritual intensity of Varanasi without stepping ashore.
The Digital Shift (2015-Present)
Since 2015, boating in Varanasi has transformed significantly. Online platforms like ours now allow travellers to easily book sunrise, evening, and festival boat rides ahead of time, with clear pricing and options for private tours guided by knowledgeable storytellers. This has brought professionalism and transparency to the experience, benefiting both visitors and boatmen.
Alongside heritage rowboats, larger cruise vessels and permanent floating platforms have become common, especially near Dashashwamedh Ghat. These multi-deck boats (often called Bajdas or river houseboats) now offer onboard meals, upper-deck Aarti viewing, and even cultural performances. Government-led initiatives such as the Varanasi-Haldia Inland Waterway (NW-1) and the Gangetic ferry line have further improved infrastructure, connecting Varanasi to key cities along the Ganga by water.
In recent years, new CNG refuelling stations for boats have been introduced along the ghats to promote cleaner energy and reduce pollution. Speedboats and jet skis are also now permitted in limited zones, especially for short-distance transfers and adventure tourism. The addition of these faster crafts has diversified river activity while raising questions about balancing tradition with modernity.
A major milestone was the launch of luxury cruises between Kolkata and Varanasi, such as the Ganga Vilas, which sails over 3,200 km through multiple states. These cruises offer high-end cabins, curated shore excursions, and fine dining from the river. While they operate largely outside Varanasi city limits, their arrival has helped position the Ganga as a world-class river tourism route.
Meanwhile, social media platforms like Instagram and YouTube have played a huge role in popularising boat rides in Varanasi. Reels and travel vlogs showcasing sunrise views and Aarti moments have gone viral, leading boat operators to upgrade their vessels with LED lighting, cushioned seating, and camera-friendly setups. Many now time their rides around the golden hours of sunrise and sunset to attract photographers and influencers.
What the Future Holds?
As Varanasi undergoes rapid transformation through urban renewal and riverfront beautification, the boating scene is expanding at an unprecedented pace. Government efforts like the Ganga Rejuvenation Project and the Smart City Mission aim to modernise infrastructure, introduce safety norms, and promote river-based tourism. Plans include structured routes, GPS-tracked boats, and standardised safety measures to bring more accountability and professionalism to the water.
However, this growth has not come without challenges. While battery-operated and CNG-powered boats have been introduced and a few fuelling stations installed, their numbers remain negligible. Diesel-powered boats continue to dominate the river, contributing to pollution in both air and water. The promise of sustainability has so far remained more of a headline than a widespread practice.
The surge of large vessels and luxury ships, including cruises and double-decker barges, also raises serious concerns. Their scale and movement often clash with the fragile, historic landscape of the ghats. These vessels disturb the water ecology, erode ghat foundations, and disrupt the serene aesthetic that defines Varanasi’s sacred riverfront. Local boatmen and environmentalists have already expressed worries about the long-term impact on both livelihood and heritage.
While curated boat journeys with onboard music, storytelling, and spiritual programming are a positive step toward cultural enrichment, the future must be approached with greater responsibility. If river tourism continues to grow unchecked, the Ganga risks becoming a commercial channel rather than a living symbol of spiritual continuity.
The way forward lies in sustainable innovation. Better regulation, stricter pollution controls, financial support for traditional boatmen to switch to clean energy, and community participation in decision-making are essential. More importantly, we need ongoing public conversations – not just about tourism, but about respect for the river itself.
